Installation support
Fitting your rotors
Every ZORVANT rotor ships as one assembled unit — ring, hat and hardware already torqued and checked. Fitting is a standard disc replacement: wheel off, caliper off, old disc off, new disc on. The only things that decide whether it runs true are a clean hub face, the right torque, and a proper bed-in.
1. When the box arrives
- Outer carton — no crush marks, no torn corners, no signs of being dropped on an edge
- Part number — the label matches the invoice, and both rotors carry the same number
- Handed pair — rotors are supplied as a matched left and right set; the carton and each rotor are marked L and R
- Friction face — the white finish is a Geomet coating applied for corrosion protection in transit and storage; it clears from the friction face once the brakes are used
- Condition — no nicks, no bent fins, no packing material pressed against a face
- Nothing loose — the rotor is one complete unit; there are no bolts, screws or fittings to assemble in the box
Photograph the carton before opening if it is damaged, and photograph any defect on the rotor before fitting. A claim is straightforward before the part is mounted and almost impossible to prove afterwards. Report within 7 days of delivery.
2. Do not take it apart
The two-piece joint is not a serviceable assembly. Removing the floating bolts — to paint the hat, to swap a ring, or out of curiosity — loses the factory torque and the flatness of the joint. Reassembly without a surface plate and a controlled torque sequence will produce run-out you cannot see but will feel through the pedal. Disassembly voids the warranty.
3. Fitting
- 01Loosen the wheel bolts on the ground
Before lifting. Chock the rear wheels and select park or first gear.
- 02Lift and remove the wheel
Use stands, not the jack alone. Work on a cold brake system.
- 03Remove the caliper and support it
Tie it to the spring or hang it from a hook. Never let it hang on the brake hose, and do not press the pedal while it is off.
- 04Remove the caliper bracket if the disc is trapped
Mark its position first. Clean the mounting faces before refitting.
- 05Take off the old disc
Remove the retaining screw if fitted. If the disc is seized on the hub, use a puller or tap it gently at the hub bore — never on the friction face.
- 06Clean the hub face
Rust, scale or debris between hub and hat becomes run-out. Wire-brush to bare metal, wipe with brake cleaner, let it dry.
- 07Fit the new rotor
The pair is handed: L goes on the left, R on the right, with the marks on the hat. If your model uses a disc retaining screw, reuse the original one. Then check that the friction face sits centred in the caliper bracket with even clearance both sides.
- 08Refit the bracket, caliper and wheel
Torque to the vehicle manufacturer's figures. Pump the pedal until it is firm before driving — the pistons have been pushed back.
Spin the wheel by hand before lowering the car. It should turn freely with a light, even pad contact and no scraping. Any hard contact at this point is a fitment problem, not a bedding problem.
4. Torque
| Fastener | Figure | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Wheel bolts | Vehicle manufacturer | Tighten in a star pattern, on the ground |
| Caliper bracket bolts | Vehicle manufacturer | Replace if stretch bolts; thread lock if specified |
| Guide pins | Vehicle manufacturer | Lubricated to the manufacturer's specification, never over-torqued |
| Floating bolts (ring to hat) | Factory set | Do not adjust — see section 2 |
We do not publish a single torque figure because it belongs to the car, not the disc. Use the workshop manual for your model, and re-check the wheel bolts after the first 100 km.
5. Bedding in
- 01Find an empty road
Dry surface, no traffic, no standing water.
- 02Eight firm stops
From about 60 km/h down to 10 km/h, firmly but not to a dead stop, leaving roughly 300 m between stops.
- 03Cool down
Drive 10 minutes with minimal braking. Do not sit at a stop with hot discs — that is how pad material prints into the ring.
- 04Check the face
Even grey film across the ring means the transfer layer is forming. Patchy or shiny faces need the procedure repeated.
For the first 300 km, avoid repeated hard stops from high speed and any track use. This is not a wear period — it is the period in which pad and ring establish their surface.
If something is wrong
| Symptom | Most likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Steering wheel shakes under braking | Run-out — dirt on the hub face, or uneven wheel bolt torque | Remove, clean the hub, re-torque in a star pattern, check with a dial gauge |
| Squeal at light pedal | Pads not bedded, or glazed from gentle use | Repeat the bed-in; check pad thickness |
| Pedal pulsation | Uneven pad transfer, not a warped disc | Re-bed; if it persists, measure disc thickness variation |
| Rubbing while rolling | Insufficient clearance, or the dust shield is touching | Re-check the fit; adjust the shield — never machine the ring |
Questions we get
Which rotor goes on which side?
The pair is handed, not interchangeable. L fits the left side of the car and R the right; the marks are printed on the outer carton and on each hat. Fitting them the wrong way round reverses the internal vane direction and the pad wear pattern.
Can I reuse my pads?
If they are flat, above minimum thickness and not glazed, yes. New pads bed in faster and more evenly, and are worth fitting on a new ring.
Do I need an alignment after fitting?
No. Replacing discs does not change geometry. Do check wheel bolt torque again after 100 km.
Can a workshop fit them?
Yes. Fitting by a qualified workshop does not affect the warranty, provided the torque figures and the bed-in procedure were followed.
Can the ring be machined if it is scored?
No. Machining removes material and changes the thermal behaviour of the ring. Replace the ring instead.
Send your VIN or OE number before you order. We confirm the exact rotor, price and freight, then email a formal invoice.